Appliqué

Appliqué in jewelry is when decorative pieces of one material are attached onto the main piece.  This can also simply be referred to as ‘applied decoration’.  Normally, this technique is used with metal, but other materials such as hardstone may also be appliquéd.  This was a particularly popular technique throughout the Victorian era and also in  Arts & Crafts Movement  jewelry.  Here are some examples below.

England, c.1903 Brooch, gilded silver, gold, enamel and turquoises Ashbee V&A Museum

England, c.1903
Brooch, gilded silver, gold, enamel and turquoises
Ashbee
V&A Museum

England, c. 1916-1917 Brooch, silver, engraved with applied decoration V&A Museum

England, c. 1916-1917
Brooch, silver, engraved with applied decoration
V&A Museum

Victorian onyx coral turquoise and ruby locket pendant. Elder and Bloom. 

Victorian onyx coral turquoise and ruby locket pendant. Elder and Bloom. 

 

In the late 1800s (after 1870 but before 1895) small amounts of platinum were often used as appliqué on gold.

 

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Pippa Bear